food porn @ terry's bistro

Terry's Bistro in the basement of Podium Mall in Ortigas. Since it opened almost a decade ago, the delicious aromas wafting from it have stopped me in my tracks whenever I'm in the area. I've bought stuff from their deli. I've browsed through their menu book displayed at the entrance many times. But I've never eaten there. Why? I don't know, I can't explain. I can only kick myself now.

9 April 2013. Ma's orders came out first. Everywhere we eat, she always has to have soup. Terry's pumpkin soup was OK, she said.

Pumpkin Soup. A singular blend of pumpkin and saffron, created by the Spanish Clarisse nuns in the 16th century.  A classic at Terry's! 180 pesos

And if it's on the menu, she always has to have the baked oysters. Me, I like 'em raw and quivering with fear as they go down the hatch. I passed on these.

Oven-Baked Oysters (6 pieces). Coated with our finest spinach-La Courala-Parmesan Rémoulade cream. 560 pesos

I've been traumatised by many bad croquettes over the years, so I wasn't too excited about ordering these, but Ma insisted. Good call! So this is what a croquette is supposed to be: light and crispy on the outside, smooth and gooey inside. And I could really taste the ham and the chicken. Completely different from the heavy, greasy bullet-like things I've eaten in the past. Quite addicting.

Jamón Serrano And Chicken Croquettes (6 pieces). Crisp-tender Jamón Serrano and chicken Béchamel croquettes. One of our best sellers! 290 pesos

Suspiros de Santoña: I loved the name of this dish, almost as much as I loved the dish itself. Suspiros is Spanish for "sigh" and that was exactly my reaction after every bite. It seems easy enough to make at home... if you could get the right ingredients. The juiciest sun-ripened tomatoes, the silkiest, flakiest tuna, the beautiful creamy mayonnaise with just a hint of fishiness, and that tangy escabeche sauce! Perfection. Reminded of insalata Caprese which is also the simplest possible salad to put together, but one that demands ingredients of the highest quality.

Suspiros De Santoña. Slices of farm-fresh tomatoes, dressed with Spanish escabeche vinaigrette topped with tuna belly flakes and our homemade anchovy mayonnaise. 410 pesos

Chef Juan Carlos de Terry's genius lies in combining deceptively simple elements to produce dishes which have extremely complex flavor profiles. Case in point: the almejas a la marinera. Every Spanish restaurant has a version of it, but Terry takes it to another level that's hard to describe. It tasted of deep ocean, and that's the highest compliment I can think of for a seafood dish. I would go back just to eat this again. Just give me a basket of bread, a glass of wine and some almejas. Happy as a clam. (Sorry, couldn't resist!)

Almejas A La Marinera. Fresh clams cooked in a harmonious combination of dry Sherry, Pimentón de la Vera, garlic and ArteOliva olive oil. 290 pesos

I noticed that the pacing of our meal and the order by which the dishes were served was really spot on. Next came the blood sausage which was fantastic-- smoky, peppery and just a bit metallic. Easily the best meat in tube form I've had in ages. I regret not taking some home with me. Somebody please send me a kilo of these.

Terry's Morcilla. Blood sausage sold by weight at Terry's Selection Gourmet Store next door. About 160 pesos for 110 grams

The reason we were at Terry's Bistro? Ma had a craving for paella. (Ironically, she was too full from the soup and oysters, as well as an astonishing amount of bread from the complimentary basket, to eat much of it. I only had a few spoonfuls myself because I was saving myself for the main event. We ended up doggy bagging half of it.)

As for me, except for that one time in the late 1990s when some friends of mine cooked a giant paella over a wood fire on the beach, I don't really like paella. I mean, I would eat it if it's on the table, but I never truly enjoyed it. This one, however, I adored. I must have been eating crappy paella all these years. Just look at the color of this one-- real saffron instead of tomato sauce! The pearly Bomba rice grains had literally burst from absorbing the flavors of the ingredients while remaining al dente. Plus it had the perfect amount of toasty soccarat on the bottom. I ate it the next day and it was still excellent.

Súper-Paella Parellada. An original recipe from Barcelona. The most appreciated entrée at Terry's! Please give us an allowance of 30 minutes to prepare. 740 pesos

Finally, the main event. Of course, I couldn't not order Terry's famous cochinillo. I'm very glad to report that it lived up to its reputation. Eating it is a religious experience which is sure to convert any vegetarian.

Súper-Cochinillo Confit. We at Terry's are proud to share with you our unique suckling pig confit creation. Served with arroz Bomba risotto, caramelized onions and Calanda peaches drizzled with rich Muscobado syrup. Only one of its kind! 1600 pesos, good for two

We ended up with the hind leg because they had run out of the belly cut, but I didn't mind. Our cochinillo had a thin layer of fat which practically melted whenever I cut into it. The meat itself was tender, juicy, crispy, porky happiness. And the skin was absolutely ethereal-- like eating candied air.

But this dish wasn't just about the pork. The sidings were essential to make the perfect bite. The risotto swimming in aromatic, herby drippings boosted the slightly delicate flavor of the meat, while the caramelized onions cut through the rich fattiness.

Arroz Bomba risotto, suckling pig and caramelized onions.

One more photo. Looking at this now brings tears to my eyes. Baby pig, you gave up your life for a worthy cause.

A thing of beauty. A work of art.

I mentioned before that I've developed an expensive red wine habit. Now I know where to get my fix. A half bottle of more-than-decent stuff for only 405 pesos! That's how much I usually pay for a single glass.

Marqués de Cáceres Crianza half bottle. 405 pesos

Verdict: Obviously, I like Terry's Bistro. Three stars. Bravo, Chef!

Terry's Facebook page. Address: Lower ground floor, The Podium, 18 ADB Avenue, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City. Phone +63.2.6385725 and 6385726.